Mtsutso uwu ndi umodzi mwa zifukwa zomwe zinapangidwa m'buku latsopano la wolemba W. David Marks, Status and Culture.Owonerera mafashoni angadziwe dzina la Marx kuchokera m'buku lake lakale, Ametora, lomwe limafotokoza momwe dziko la Japan lidatengera masitayilo aku America ndikuligulitsa.Ntchito yake yatsopano imawulula zomwe amachitcha "chinsinsi chachikulu cha chikhalidwe" - makamaka chifukwa chake anthu amasankha machitidwe ndi zovuta zina popanda chifukwa.
Zoonadi, kulingalira kothandiza kapena ziweruzo za khalidwe kaŵirikaŵiri ndizo zifukwa zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito kulungamitsa kuthawira kwathu ku zochitika zatsopano kapena zizindikiro za udindo.Ogula angadziuze okha kuti zipangizo ndi luso la thumba la Birkin ndi lachiwiri, ngakhale kuti siligwira ntchito bwino ponyamula zinthu kusiyana ndi matumba omwe angagulidwe pamtengo wochepa.Zopempha za kukongola kapena zowona zingagwiritsidwenso ntchito ngati chowiringula chochoka ku ma lapel akuluakulu kupita ku ma jeans akhungu kapena matumba, omwe tilibe cholinga chenicheni chogwira ntchito.
Khalidwe lotere liripo osati m'gulu lamakono la ogula."Kwa zaka zambiri, mafuko akutali asintha masitayelo awo popanda kulembetsa ku GQ," Marx analemba m'mutu wonena za kachitidwe ka mafashoni.Tikhoza kunena kuti zochitika zimapanga makampani opanga mafashoni, osati mosemphanitsa.
Pamtima pazochitika zachikhalidwe izi, malinga ndi Marx, ndi chikhumbo chathu chokhala ndi udindo komanso kuthekera kwathu kudzitamandira.Chizindikiro chogwira ntchito chimafunika ndalama zambiri kuti chikhale chapadera, kaya mtengo wake weniweni (Birkins kachiwiri) kapena kungoyerekeza kwa chidziwitso cha icho chomwe chingadziwike ndi omwe ali ndi chidziwitso chimenecho, monga chizindikiro chosadziwika cha Japan.
Komabe, intaneti ikusintha momwe ma brand, malonda, ndi china chilichonse chimapangira mtengo.Kubwera kwa ma TV ndi kupanga zambiri zaka zana zapitazo, chikhalidwe cha anthu monga chidziwitso chamkati chikhoza kukhala chofunikira kwambiri kusiyana ndi kuwonetseratu chuma, chifukwa chikhoza kusonyeza udindo ndi kulimbikitsa kutsanzira.Koma lero muli ndi mwayi wopeza pafupifupi chidziwitso chilichonse kapena nkhani yomwe mungaganizire, zomwe zidapangitsa kuti pakhale "kusakhazikika kwachikhalidwe", Marx adatsutsa kuti palibe chomwe chikuwoneka kuti chikulimbikira, ndikuti, ngakhale zivute zitani, chikhalidwe sichikuwoneka. kupita patsogolo.Izi zimathandizira kufotokoza kulakalaka kwa retro komwe kumapangitsa kuti mafashoni amasiku ano aziwoneka ngati zongopeka zakale osati nthawi yodziwika bwino m'mbiri yamafashoni.
“Zambiri za bukhuli zimachokera ku kulingalira za chimene chiri cholakwika ndi chikhalidwe pakali pano ndi kuzindikira kuti njira yokhayo imene ndingafotokozere izo, choyamba, ine ndiri ndi mtundu wina wa nthanthi za mmene chikhalidwe chimagwirira ntchito, kapena osachepera malingaliro.ndi miyambo yanji," adatero Marx poyankha.
BoF ikukambirana ndi Marks momwe intaneti ikusinthira chizindikiro cha dziko, zotsatira zake pa chikhalidwe, NFTs, ndi kufunika kwa zojambulajambula m'zaka za digito.
M'zaka za m'ma 1900, chidziwitso ndi mwayi wopeza zinthu zakhala zotsika mtengo.Intaneti inali yoyamba kuthyola zotchinga zambiri.Chilichonse chimapezeka mosavuta pa intaneti.Kenako [zinakhudza] kugawa ndi mwayi wopeza malonda.
Ngakhale m’zaka za m’ma 1990, ndinafunsidwa mu New York Times pa nkhani yonena za Nyani Wosamba chifukwa anthu ankafuna kugula Nyani Wosamba ku New York.Ndizosatheka, chifukwa mwina muyenera kupita ku Japan, zomwe palibe amene adazichita panthawiyo, kapena muyenera kupita ku sitolo ku New York, komwe nthawi zina amakhala nazo, kapena muyenera kupita ku London. sitolo kumene iye ali..Ndizomwezo.Chifukwa chake, kungoyendera Monkey Yosamba kumakhala ndi mtengo wokwera kwambiri, zomwe zimapangitsa kukhala chizindikiritso chodziwika bwino, ndipo anthu amaganiza kuti ndizabwino kwambiri chifukwa ndizochepa.
Palibe chilichonse lero chomwe simungagule ndikubweretsa kwa inu nthawi iliyonse, kulikonse.Mutha kudzuka pakati pausiku ndikuyitanitsa.Koma chofunika kwambiri, zonse ndi plagiarism.Ngati mukufuna china chake mwanjira inayake yomwe mukuwona panjira, mutha kuchipeza pompano.Choncho, palibe zolepheretsa chidziwitso ndipo palibe zolepheretsa kuzinthu.
Mukufotokoza momveka bwino m'buku kuti simukuwona kuti njirayi ndi yopanda ndale.Kwenikweni ndi zoipa.Izi zimapangitsa chikhalidwe kukhala chotopetsa, chifukwa chizindikiro choyambirira ndi mtengo weniweni wa dollar, osati chikhalidwe chilichonse.
ngati chonchi.Sindikudziwa ngati mwawona vidiyoyi, koma pali makanema a anthu akuyenda LA akufunsa anthu za zovala zawo.Akamayang'ana chovala chilichonse, sanena za mtundu wake, amangonena za mtengo wake.Ndinaziwona n’kunena kuti, “Aa, ndi dziko lina chabe,” makamaka popeza kuti m’badwo wanga ndiwe wamanyazi kwambiri kukamba za mtengo wake kapena kuyesa kuzichepetsa.
Likulu lachikhalidwe lakhala mawu onyansa.Pambuyo [katswiri wa zachikhalidwe cha anthu] Pierre Bourdieu atalemba mochulukira kuti kuyamikiridwa kwa luso locholoŵana ndi losamvetsetseka kuli chizindikiro cha kalasi ndipo kuti aliyense wayamba kumvetsetsa, panali kutsutsa koonekeratu: “Tiyenera kupenda mofatsa.Art, kuchokera pamwamba mpaka pansi.kotero kuti kuyamikiridwa kwa luso kusakhale njira yongopanganso magulu amagulu."Chikhalidwe chochepa chimakhala chothandiza monga chikhalidwe chapamwamba.Koma zomwe akuyesera kuchita ndikuchotsa chikhalidwe cha anthu ngati njira yopatula.Imakankhira [zizindikiro zamakhalidwe] kubwerera ku chuma chachuma, chomwe sindikuganiza kuti ndi cholinga cha aliyense.Ndi zotsatira zadongosolo chabe za kusinthaku.
Kutsutsa kwanga sikuli kuti "tiyenera kubweretsanso likulu la chikhalidwe cha anthu osankhika monga njira yosankhira anthu osaphunzira."Pakungofunika kuti pakhale njira yoperekera mphotho pazomwe ndimatcha zovuta zophiphiritsa, zomwe zikutanthauza kuzama kwakuya, kosangalatsa, kovutirapo kwa chikhalidwe popanda kuwonedwa ngati wodzikuza, wonyozeka, komanso wonyada.M'malo mwake, mvetsetsani kuti izi ndi zatsopano zomwe zimapititsa patsogolo chikhalidwe chonse.
M'mafashoni, makamaka, kodi zaluso zimataya phindu m'zaka za intaneti chifukwa mutha kunena kuti ndizophiphiritsira zovuta?
Ine ndikuganiza ndi njira ina mozungulira.Ndikuganiza kuti luso labwerera.Popeza kuti chilichonse chilipo, ukatswiri ndi njira yobwerera ku kusowa komanso kusowa.Panthawi imodzimodziyo, popeza chirichonse chimapangidwa mochuluka kapena mocheperapo ndi makina, nkhani zamtundu wamtunduwu zimakhala zovuta kwambiri.Ma Brand akuyenera kubwereranso ku ukatswiri kuti apange nkhani yomwe imavomereza mtengo wapamwamba.
Mwachiwonekere, pali mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zizindikiro zomwe zikuchitika pa intaneti.Ma NFT apeza njira yopangira kusowa kwa katundu wa digito polola anthu kutsimikizira umwini wa chinthu ngati jpeg.Mukuwona zosonkhanitsira za NFT, monga Bored Ape Yacht Club, zomwe zimayamba kukhala zizindikilo zamagulu a crypto kenako kutchuka kwambiri.Kodi izi zikutanthauza kuti chizindikiro chikupitirirabe chimodzimodzi, koma tangotsala pang'ono kupeza njira zatsopano zowonetsera ndi zizindikiro monga chikhalidwe chochuluka chimapangidwira pa intaneti?
Ndikukhulupirira kuti ndi zizindikilo.Ndikungoganiza kuti ndi zizindikiro zofooka chifukwa zizindikiro zimafuna zinthu zitatu.Amafunikira ndalama zowonetsera: payenera kukhala china chake chomwe chimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kuzipeza.Iwo ali nawo iwo.Iwo ndi okwera mtengo kapena osowa.Zimakhala zovuta kupeza imodzi.Koma alibe zinthu zina ziwiri zomwe chizindikiro chabwino chili nacho, chomwe ndi alibi - palibe chifukwa chogulira china kupatula malingaliro azachuma kapena mukufuna kugula chizindikirocho.Ndiye iyenso alibe chiyanjano ndi magulu omwe analipo kale apamwamba.Boring Monkeys adafika pafupi pomwe Madonna, Stephen Curry ndi ena mwa anthu otchukawa adayamba kuwagula ndikuyika pazithunzi zawo.
Koma chinthu chachikulu pazizindikiro zamakhalidwe ndikuti payenera kukhala zotsalira zamakhalidwe.Ayenera kukhala ndi ntchito zina zomwe zitha kukhala gawo lachilengedwe la moyo wa anthu zomwe sizingawapangitse kukhala chithumwa chabe, koma gawo lenileni la moyo wa anthu kenako chikhumbo cha ena.
Zikuwoneka kuti nthawi zonse timakhala ndi achichepere omwe amafuna kukhala osiyana ndikumenyana ndi achikulire.Kodi samadzipangira iwo eni zikhalidwe ndi zizindikiro za chikhalidwe chawo?Kodi zikusintha chilichonse?
Ngati mukukhala pa intaneti ndikukhala pa TikTok, muyenera kudziwa mafotokozedwe a nsanja tsiku lililonse, chifukwa muyenera kudziwa ma memes omwe akuyenda, nthabwala zomwe zili momwemo komanso zomwe sizili.Zonse zimatengera chidziwitso, ndipo ndikumva ngati ndi komwe mphamvu zambiri zimapita.Sindimaona ngati mphamvu ikupita popanga mitundu yatsopano ya nyimbo zomwe zimatithamangitsa, kupanga mitundu yatsopano ya zovala zomwe zimatilepheretsa.Simuziwona mwa achichepere.
Koma ndi TikTok, ndikuganiza kuti amapanga makanema omwe amanyansidwa ndi akuluakulu chifukwa akuluakulu ambiri amatenga TikTok ndikuti, "Ndatuluka."adapangidwira okalamba chifukwa ali ndi kukoma koyipa kwambiri, kotsika kwambiri mu kanema wachiwiri wa 15.Simukuyenera kukhala ntchito yaluso.Choncho, pali kusiyana pakati pa achinyamata.Si malo omwe tidazolowera, omwe ndi zovuta zophiphiritsira kapena zaluso.
Ndikuganiza kuti chimodzi mwazinthu zomwe ambiri aife tamva kwa zaka zambiri ndikuti mafashoni sakhalanso ogwira mtima monga kale.Popeza chilichonse chikuwoneka nthawi yomweyo ndikufikirika panjira yowulukira ndege kapena pa TikTok, zimatuluka ndikuwonongeka mwachangu kotero kuti pamakhala zochepa, ngati zilipo, zosiyana mchaka chimodzi.Ngati zonse zidalipo pa intaneti kwa mphindi 15 zokha, kodi pangakhale china chake chomwe chingakulitse phindu lambiri lomwe munalifotokoza m'bukulo kwa mibadwo yamtsogolo?
Zosintha zamafashoni sizimangokhudza kutengera ana kapena kugula, koma za anthu kuziphatikiza m'njira zomwe amaziwona ngati zowona.Ndi nthawi yaifupi yotereyi pakati pa maonekedwe a lingaliro ndi pamene likufalikira kapena kufalikira pakati pa anthu, anthu alibe nthawi yowakumbatira ndikuzipanga kukhala gawo lachidziwitso chawo.Popanda izo, sizimawonekera ngati chikhalidwe cha anthu, kotero mumapeza kayendedwe kakang'ono kameneka.Mutha kuwatcha kuti nanotrends.Ndi chikhalidwe, zinthu ndizovuta kwambiri.
Koma amapatukabe pa zinthu zina pakapita nthawi.Sitilinso mumchitidwe wa jeans wonyezimira.Ngakhale zonse zikuyenda bwino, ngati muyang'ana ma jeans onyezimira, mumaganiza kuti ali ndi chibwenzi.Chikwama cha J.Crew chimandisangalatsa chifukwa ngati mwakhala mukuyang'ana Popeye kwa zaka zinayi zapitazi, mutha kuwona kuti ali ndi silhouette yayikulu kwambiri.Zonse zimachokera kwa stylist, Akio Hasegawa.Mwachiwonekere iye akuchitapo kanthu kuti zinthu zatsika kwambiri ku Thom Browne, koma amuna okha ndi omwe akuyamba kuvala zovala zomwe zimawayenereradi.Koma izi zikangochitika, chitseko cha silhouette yokulirapo chimatseguka.
Ndiye kunena kuti palibe zomwe zikuchitika, sindikuganiza kuti ndizowona.Mfundo yakuti tikuyenda kuchokera ku zobisika kupita ku zazikulu mu chirichonse ndi chikhalidwe.Ndi kachitidwe kachikale kwambiri, komwe kakuyenda pang'onopang'ono, osati zamphamvu, zonse zazaka za zana la 20 zomwe tidaziwonapo m'mbuyomu.
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Nthawi yotumiza: Oct-19-2022